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[quote=Ryan_Schoelerman]This is essentially a binary question - yes or no
I know the IRCntrl_LED pin controls an IR strobe light - is its power supply off any of these pins? If so, what's the ratings on it? [/quote]

IRLED_CTRL_OUT is an FPGA output from a 3.3V I/O-bank.

<t>IRLED_CTRL_OUT is a dedicated (3.3V) LVTTL output. Iol=Ioh=8mA.<br/> <br/> VCAP_OUT is not exactly a "5V" supply-rail. It's the output of a ST890 current-limiter, which is set for no less than 200mA. As long as the current drawn from this pis is <200mA, the voltage out of it should be within 0.5V...

Correct, 20mA terminated into a matching 50-ohm load.

2V/(50+50)ohm.

3m on each cable will not be a problem.

<r>Usually the vendor of the stereo-glasses emitter will supply the Mini-DIN cable that connects up the video card, and BNC on the other end to connect to the emitter/OptiHub.<br/> <br/> You can order it here:<br/> <URL url="http://www.vrlogic.com/html/stereographics/emitter__adapter___cable_infor.h...

"Doesn't put out enough current..." ?? Refer to Pg2 of datasheet. The buffer can sink/source 24mA at Vcc=3V. For a Voh of 2.0V into a 50ohm load, Iout=4mA, well below the rated 24mA.


There is a 50ohm series termination resistor on Ext Sync Out.

The spec of the output-driver for the External Sync Output is here (Vcc=3.3V):
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74lvc2g34.pdf

The spec for the External Sync Input is: Vil(max)= 0.8V, Vih(min) = 2.0V

We have been able to reproduce the problem you described on a certain batch of V100:R2 cameras fulfilled during the last two months. Pls call us at 1-888-865-5535 to arrange for your cameras to be fixed.

We apologize for the any inconvenience caused.

Pls make sure that you're cascading the two OptiHubs correctly. You should connect the Hub Sync Out jack of one hub to the Hub Sync In jack of the other hub.

Exposure should not have any effect on the frame-rate of the cameras.

<t>Ok. That would be the reason that camera-to-camera sync is not working. Unfortunately, we had a batch of bad board. If you're in a rush to get it working and are handy with a soldering-iron, then go ahead and bridge the two pads of the missing component together (making sure the solder doesn't re...