'Active' dot

Moooby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Ohio

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Moooby » Sat Nov 23, 2002 5:12 pm

Shack didnt have everything I needed the only 50ohm resistors they had were 10 amp
so I had to run 2x100's and they didnt have 500 ohm trim pots either so I have a micro sized 1k trim pot that Ill try using but only to the halfway point I dont like doing this,and my electronics knowledge is somewhat lacking
but I am a Redneck, and we can make anything work (HEY YA'LL WATCH THIS!) that is our newest battle cry btw : ) bought a nice box and printed circuit board everything is laid out nice I also opted to use a 1/8 audio connector so the LED lead can be removed and plugged in with ease, and replacing will be easy.
I decided to make the LED removable until I find the mounting that best suits me. I'll try to post pics soon as Im done

Moooby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Ohio

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Moooby » Sun Nov 24, 2002 4:27 pm

OK mine did not work, but I had to use components that did not match what was said to use. Radio shack did NOT have 500 ohm trim pots, I tried a 1kohm micro, mind you I don't know much about electronics, but the radio shack guy told me to run 2 100 ohm resistors in parallel to get 50 ohms because 100 is all they had.
I need to know exactly what I can use to do this project what parts and exact specs please
I would appreciate the help. I have some time off for thanksgiving and would love to work on this while the turkey is cooking : )
I need to know substitutions too if possible
The only 50 ohm resistors the Shack had was 50 ohm 10 amp, but that seemed alittle hefty for the Job, but like I said I don't know much about electronics.

[ November 24, 2002, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Moooby ]

snake122
Posts: 410
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Spencerville, Indiana, U.S.A.

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by snake122 » Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:37 am

quote:Originally posted by Jim Richardson:
Hello:

You guys are great! This project has really taken on a life of it's own. Just to confirm, I will be designing an active LED setup around the new year, I will open up a topic on it so that I can get all your feedback, especially from those that have already made their own system. Carry on...Great news Jim! I'll be looking foward to it!

quote:Originally posted by Moooby:
OK mine did not work, but I had to use components that did not match what was said to use. Radio shack did NOT have 500 ohm trim pots, I tried a 1kohm micro, mind you I don't know much about electronics, but the radio shack guy told me to run 2 100 ohm resistors in parallel to get 50 ohms because 100 is all they had.
I need to know exactly what I can use to do this project what parts and exact specs please
I would appreciate the help. I have some time off for thanksgiving and would love to work on this while the turkey is cooking : )
I need to know substitutions too if possible
The only 50 ohm resistors the Shack had was 50 ohm 10 amp, but that seemed alittle hefty for the Job, but like I said I don't know much about electronics.Not sure about that in parallel 2x100=50 Ohms, I'm not a EE. I'm using this 50 ohm one in my setup. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?c ... =271%2D133
I too am using the 1k micro trimmer pot.

Moooby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Ohio

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Moooby » Mon Nov 25, 2002 3:51 am

Thanks for the parts ID.
What would the specs be on an AC adapter for power?

Moooby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Ohio

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Moooby » Tue Nov 26, 2002 3:09 pm

I just discovered the best thing heheheheh
Watching my DVD the other night I was shuffling through the menu when the idea struck me, and sure enough the DVD remote worked fine : )
My cheap old Optimus (Radio Shack) surround receiver remote worked the best out of all my remotes, so heres what Im gonna do

Solder in a switch to the volume up or down
buttons (these look odd when the push buttons are off and all you have is the board)
You can clearly see what you need to solder to
going to use a tiny drill bit to tap into the conductor in the board hope it works out!
then Im going to un-solder the IR led and solder in a 1/8 phono jack (MONO/2 conductor)
then attack a small diameter cord to the LED
havent found a housing for the LED yet but that shouldn't be hard to do. Doing it this way will allow me to replace the LED's easier and make LED placement modular. If this works this would be the simplest way to make an active IR until Natural Point puts out one for us to buy.
I have one question for anyone who has the knowledge, and that is about the Trim pot
can I simply place the Trim pot inline with the power output to the LED? ie... after removing
the LED I would place trim pot in its place THEN add the cord to the LED??? would'nt this added resistance ruin the components on the board, I mean it is adding something not designed into the board. I just don;t know enough about electronics to be sure.

[ November 26, 2002, 10:11 PM: Message edited by: Moooby ]

Moooby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Ohio

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Moooby » Wed Nov 27, 2002 5:51 pm

Project completed worked like a charm
I now have a working active IR that has imprved my TIR experience. My unit is pretty simple I used a Radio Shack Project box as the housing inside is the Remote controls board.
I wired in a switch (this was the most difficult part) the wired in a 1/8 audio jack to the box(female) then made up my wire to the LED again using 1/8 male audio jack the LED is housed in a male audio jack ti worked like well so now the LED is very modular the female end of the cable is affixed to my headset if or when I burn out the LED I simply replace it by unplugging it and snapping a new one in. I will try to post pictures soon.

Jim
NaturalPoint Employee
NaturalPoint Employee
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Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Jim » Mon Dec 02, 2002 4:48 pm

Hello:

Very cool and inventive. I would love to see a picture of the device. Thanks for keeping us updated with your progress.

snake122
Posts: 410
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Spencerville, Indiana, U.S.A.

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by snake122 » Mon Dec 02, 2002 5:03 pm

I almost used a remote myself, but the family noticed it was missing hehe! For anybody else who uses a remote be sure to find the proper button. Certain buttons have the LED flashing at different speeds that may make tracking difficult. Go for the button that doesn't appear to flash in the advanced screen and tracks well.

Moooby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 5:00 am
Location: Ohio

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by Moooby » Tue Dec 03, 2002 11:25 am

I used to volume button which seems to work the best.

[ December 03, 2002, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: Moooby ]

RSJeff
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 5:00 am

Re: 'Active' dot

Post by RSJeff » Wed Jan 22, 2003 11:23 am

Maybe you could work something out with EDimensional/IO systems (whoever actually manufactures the 3D glasses) to put an IR LED in the center of the glasses themselves? Just another thought....

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