I am computer lliterate and of above average intelligence, but I am hanged if I can follow the manual.
I am running Battle of Britain II with Vector Expansion.
I have a problem with looking up. I can look down OK but if I lift my head just a tad too much, I find myself gazing at the back of my seat. If I look at the Heads window, the displayed head flips over backwards. I have read the manual several times (not backwards yet!) but can see no reference to what is causing this and how, in words of one syllable, I can correct this.
I have downloaded and installed the latest software. There were several heart-stopping moments when Windows XP announced that the software could damage my computer - apparently it does not comply with MS standards. Very odd and very disturbing. The latest software has made absolutely no difference.
I do note several references to the fact that I should only be able to see one green dot in the Tracking window. I can see 3 and thought this was due to the 3 reflectors on the special device fitted to my hat. Does this have anything to do with it?
I am sorry if this appears to be one long moan but I'm afraid it is. I was taught many years ago that the secret of writing a good manual, is to imagine you are dealing with a complete idiot! Then a reasonably intelligent reader might just be able to catch your drift.
Help!
[ October 09, 2005, 10:00 AM: Message edited by: borton ]
OK I give up!
Re: OK I give up!
Borton, from the sounds of it you are going out of range. The symptoms you describe happens when one or more of the tracking dots goes edge on or the triangle of dots become a straight line, a bit like a gymbal lock
The cure is fortunatly very simple
Push your cap further back so that the peak is sitting higher. This will give the TIR a greater range up and down before it goes out of range. Increasing the distance between the camera and reflectors might help as well.
As for the manual at least I am not the only one to have read it It is out of date and does not take the Vector into account.
Please re-post if you continue to have problems.
The cure is fortunatly very simple
Push your cap further back so that the peak is sitting higher. This will give the TIR a greater range up and down before it goes out of range. Increasing the distance between the camera and reflectors might help as well.
As for the manual at least I am not the only one to have read it It is out of date and does not take the Vector into account.
Please re-post if you continue to have problems.
Re: OK I give up!
Barred, thank you for your comments.
After I blew my top , I went back into the prog to discover that the Up/Down look was now working perfectly. Your comments explain why, as I can now recreate the problem and remove it again by adjusting my hat. Obviously, I was not putting it on the same way each time. A further change was that up until the Head started flipping, I was using headphones. It was when I changed to speakers that the problem first arose!
I can only sit in one position as I am using a set of MRVC Copy Cat controls which have a fixed position between my head and the screen. This is fine for everything else - I have a 2 foot gap. It is a pity that the Hat setting has to be so precise.
May I please ask you for a further favour. When TIR is turned off I have a field of view which suits me. When I turn TIR on I seem to zoom in which I do not like. The only way I can return to my preferred FOV is to lean my body backwards. This is most uncomfortable!
Is there any way I can adjust the initial FOV setting within TIR? There is nothing relating to this in the manual I have. When will the up-to-date manual be available?
[ October 09, 2005, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: borton ]
After I blew my top , I went back into the prog to discover that the Up/Down look was now working perfectly. Your comments explain why, as I can now recreate the problem and remove it again by adjusting my hat. Obviously, I was not putting it on the same way each time. A further change was that up until the Head started flipping, I was using headphones. It was when I changed to speakers that the problem first arose!
I can only sit in one position as I am using a set of MRVC Copy Cat controls which have a fixed position between my head and the screen. This is fine for everything else - I have a 2 foot gap. It is a pity that the Hat setting has to be so precise.
May I please ask you for a further favour. When TIR is turned off I have a field of view which suits me. When I turn TIR on I seem to zoom in which I do not like. The only way I can return to my preferred FOV is to lean my body backwards. This is most uncomfortable!
Is there any way I can adjust the initial FOV setting within TIR? There is nothing relating to this in the manual I have. When will the up-to-date manual be available?
[ October 09, 2005, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: borton ]
Re: OK I give up!
Borton, do you mean the amount of movement needed/speed ratio of your head movement to the ingame movement?
It is not possible to change the camera's FOV and there is sometimes confusion between the camera#s FOV and the axis control curves.
If you are thinking of the relation between head movement to output movement, that is controlled in the profile. You can edit the profile by selecting it and then 'Edit'.
Select 'Edit Yaw'.
In the top right of the pop up you should see 'Shift Entire Curve' moving the ehtire curve up will speed up the movement and less head movement is needed for a given ingame rotation.
Use the copy to all curves at the bottom of the window.
Close the edit window when finished and you should see in the bottom of the profiles click the box for the profile you have edited and it will auto load on startup of the TIR software.
As the camera-reflector relationship is slightly different all you will need to do is hit the 'Hot Key' for Centre and it will '0' the centre for your curves in the profile.
Hope that helps.
It is not possible to change the camera's FOV and there is sometimes confusion between the camera#s FOV and the axis control curves.
If you are thinking of the relation between head movement to output movement, that is controlled in the profile. You can edit the profile by selecting it and then 'Edit'.
Select 'Edit Yaw'.
In the top right of the pop up you should see 'Shift Entire Curve' moving the ehtire curve up will speed up the movement and less head movement is needed for a given ingame rotation.
Use the copy to all curves at the bottom of the window.
Close the edit window when finished and you should see in the bottom of the profiles click the box for the profile you have edited and it will auto load on startup of the TIR software.
As the camera-reflector relationship is slightly different all you will need to do is hit the 'Hot Key' for Centre and it will '0' the centre for your curves in the profile.
Hope that helps.
Re: OK I give up!
quote:Originally posted by Barred:
Borton, do you mean the amount of movement needed/speed ratio of your head movement to the ingame movement?
It is not possible to change the camera's FOV and there is sometimes confusion between the camera#s FOV and the axis control curves.No, to the first para. That's what I was afraid of for the 2nd para.
Thanks for your help anyway.
Borton, do you mean the amount of movement needed/speed ratio of your head movement to the ingame movement?
It is not possible to change the camera's FOV and there is sometimes confusion between the camera#s FOV and the axis control curves.No, to the first para. That's what I was afraid of for the 2nd para.
Thanks for your help anyway.
Re: OK I give up!
No problem Borton. I have been thinking about your problem and have you tried moving the camera back from the refletors.
Unlike the original TIR, TIR3's camera will work a good distance (I have heard of 36"+ and tried 30" with no problems), but lighting would come into play a bit more at longer ranges.
If you can give moving the camera back and run into troubles (now I know what you are trying to do) I will see what I can do to help.
Good Luck.
Unlike the original TIR, TIR3's camera will work a good distance (I have heard of 36"+ and tried 30" with no problems), but lighting would come into play a bit more at longer ranges.
If you can give moving the camera back and run into troubles (now I know what you are trying to do) I will see what I can do to help.
Good Luck.
Re: OK I give up!
Yes definitely move the unit further away from you as Barred says, around 32-36" is best I found.
Also don't forget to recenter the view sometimes if you feel you'd liek to sit further away or closer slightly and your view becomes too zoomed, press the recenter button (F12 I think is default).
Also don't forget to recenter the view sometimes if you feel you'd liek to sit further away or closer slightly and your view becomes too zoomed, press the recenter button (F12 I think is default).
Re: OK I give up!
Borton,
Using a CH HOTAS, I was fighting the same distance thing! Here's what I did. I set the hat on the shelf and got a RacquetBall Sweat band. It had a Wilson logo on the front. I attached a reflective square to the logo so it would stick without falling off. Bingo works a charm. New distance 33".
Decon
[ October 14, 2005, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Decon ]
Using a CH HOTAS, I was fighting the same distance thing! Here's what I did. I set the hat on the shelf and got a RacquetBall Sweat band. It had a Wilson logo on the front. I attached a reflective square to the logo so it would stick without falling off. Bingo works a charm. New distance 33".
Decon
[ October 14, 2005, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Decon ]
Re: OK I give up!
Just to add to what Decon said.
Have the HOTAS and TIR on differnt ports on your PC and not on a HUB because the data transfer of the 2 is greater than the USB will allow.
Have the HOTAS and TIR on differnt ports on your PC and not on a HUB because the data transfer of the 2 is greater than the USB will allow.